Protecting Kyiv's Heritage: An Urban Center Rebuilding Itself in the Shadow of War.

Lesia Danylenko proudly presented her newly installed front door. Local helpers had affectionately dubbed its graceful transom window the “croissant”, a whimsical nod to its arched shape. “I think it’s more of a showy bird,” she remarked, appreciating its branch-like ornamentation. The renovation effort at one of Kyiv’s early 20th-century art nouveau houses was supported by residents, who celebrated with a couple of neighbourhood pavement parties.

It was also an expression of resistance in the face of a foreign power, she clarified: “We strive to live like everyday people in spite of the war. It’s about arranging our life in the best possible way. We’re not afraid of staying in our country. I had the option to depart, starting anew to a foreign land. On the contrary, I’m here. The new entrance shows our dedication to our homeland.”

“We are trying to live like normal people despite the war. It’s about shaping our life in the optimal way.”

Preserving Kyiv’s built legacy could be considered paradoxical at a moment when aerial assaults frequently hit the capital, causing death and destruction. Since the beginning of the current year, offensive operations have been significantly intensified. After each attack, workers board up shattered windows with plywood and endeavor, where possible, to save residential buildings.

Within the Conflict, a Fight for Beauty

In the midst of war, a band of activists has been striving to preserve the city’s deteriorating mansions, built in a playful style known as Ukrainian modernism. Danylenko’s house is in the historic Shevchenkivskyi district. It was erected in 1906 and was originally the home of a prosperous fur dealer. Its exterior is embellished with horse chestnut leaves and delicate camomile flowers.

“They are symbols of Kyiv. These properties are increasingly scarce in the present day,” Danylenko said. The mansion was designed by an architect of Austrian-German origin. Several other buildings nearby showcase similar art nouveau elements, including an irregular shape – with a medieval spire on one side and a small tower on the other. One popular house in the area boasts two forlorn white stucco cats, as well as owls, masks and a devil.

Several Threats to History

But military aggression is only one threat. Preservation campaigners say they face profit-driven developers who demolish historically significant buildings, corrupt officials and a governing class unconcerned or hostile to the city’s rich architectural history. The bitter winter climate adds another difficulty.

“Kyiv is a city where capital prevails. We lack genuine political will to save our heritage,” said Dmytro Perov, an activist. He alleged the city’s leadership was allied with many of the developers who flatten important houses. Perov further alleged that the plan for the capital comes straight out of a previous decade. The mayor denies these claims, saying they originate from political rivals.

Perov said many of the public-spirited activists who once championed older properties were now fighting on the frontline or had been lost. The ongoing conflict meant that the entire society was facing monetary strain, he added, including those in the legal system who mysteriously ruled in favour of questionable new-build schemes. “The longer this goes on the more we see degradation of our society and state bodies,” he contended.

Loss and Disregard

One egregious demolition site is in the waterside Podil neighbourhood. The street was lined with classical 19th-century houses. A developer who purchased the plot had agreed to preserve its attractive brick facade. Shortly following the onset of major hostilities, heavy machinery razed it to the ground. Recently, a crane dug foundations for a new shopping and business centre, observed by a surly security guard.

Anatolii Pohorily, a heritage supporter, said there was not much hope for the remaining turquoise-painted houses on the site. Sometimes developers destroyed old properties while claiming they were doing “archaeological research”, he said. A 20th-century empire also caused immense damage on the capital, redesigning its primary street after the second world war so it could accommodate official processions.

Carrying the Torch

One of Kyiv’s most notable advocates of historic buildings, a tour guide and blogger, was lost his life in 2022 while serving in a contested area. His colleague Nelli Chudna said she and other volunteers were persevering in his important preservation work. There were originally 3,500 masonry mansions in Kyiv, many constructed for the city’s wealthy business magnates. Only 80 of their original doors are still in existence, she said.

“It wasn’t foreign rockets that eliminated them. It was us,” she said with regret. “The war could continue for another 20 years. If we fail to protect architecture now little will be left,” she continued. Chudna recently helped to restore a full of character vine-clad house built in 1910, which serves as the headquarters of her cultural organization and operates as a film set and museum. The property has a new red door and original-style railings; inside is a vintage sanitary facility and antique mirrors.

“The war could last another 20 years. If we don’t defend architecture now nothing will be left.”

The building’s resident, artist Yurii Pikul, described his home as “quite special and a little bit cold”. Why do many locals not cherish the past? “Regrettably they are without education and taste. It’s all about business. We are trying as a country to move towards the west. But we are still some distance away from such cultural awareness,” he said. Outdated ways of thinking persisted, with people reluctant to take personal responsibility for their urban environment, he added.

Therapy in Preservation

Some buildings are collapsing because of official neglect. Chudna indicated a once-magical villa concealed behind a modern hospital. Its roof had collapsed; pigeons made their home among its broken windows; refuse lay under a fairytale tower. “Frequently we lose the battle,” she admitted. “This activity is a form of healing for us. We are trying to save all this history and beauty.”

In the face of destruction and neglect, these volunteers continue their work, one building at a time, arguing that to preserve a city’s heart, you must first cherish its history.

Dana Carson
Dana Carson

Elara is a passionate writer and explorer who shares her journeys and insights on connecting with the natural world.